Modern Colouring - When 1 technique isn't enough
So how many times have you had a consultation with a client , where they say “it’s only a full head of foils or it’s just a brown!!”? After getting down to the nitty gritty with details and after they whip out pictures on Pinterest , we realise that this ain’t just a classic foils after all. But I really think this is most clients nowadays. The picture shown is never one classic technique as we learned during our training.
So let’s break it down then!!!!
Blondes 👱♀️
A modern blonde is now multi dimensional, with highs and lows and lots of contrast. Created using a mixture of baby lights and textural highlights. Even lowlights aren’t traditional, we often only colour the root and mid sections leaving the ends light. Face frames are emphasised with pops of lightness. Lengths and ends are made to pop using tip outs.
These are all techniques done before we rinse and do arguably the most important work - glossing, glazing or toning. Call it what u will!! Whether it’s a global single process gloss, (it rarely is).
Usually it involves a root shadow on the roots (obviously) and a lighter colour on the ends. In more complicated zone tone scenarios I’ve used 4/5 glosses, (a decision I nearly instantly regretted if I’m honest). Now the max. I do is 3 unless I’m doing more corrective work.
This all takes time and skill.
I’m sure everyone can admit to having a beautiful colour ruined due to the gloss being applied incorrectly.
With all this being said not every blonde clients needs every one of these techniques but most blondes need more than just one. Sometimes it’s baby lights, tip outs and a root shadow, and others it’s a face frame and gloss. But it’s never just a head of highlights anymore.
My favourite glosses at the moment are:
Redken shades eq 09N , 09v ,010n
L’Oreal dialight 10.02 , 10.12, 9.13
Now to brunettes 🙎🏽♀️🤷🏽♀️
A brunette is no longer just a brunette. As with blondes, brunettes want dimension. No one wants a flat dull brown. It’s all about shimmer and shine.
Whether we are using a permanent or demi permanent for the root colour some lightness is needed to add dimension. This is achieved by adding lightness in either foils or freehand pieces.
A gloss is then applied to add shine and dimension. Another way is to use the already lightened hair and add lowlights to make the pieces pop.
Sometimes the most simple brunette can be 1 colour on the roots and another on the ends depending on the desired results, but the desired result is never just one colour roots to ends
My favourite glosses at the moment are:
Redken Shades EQ 06ABn , 06CB, O6NB
L’Oreal dialight 6.8, 7.23, 5.07, 6.13
Redhead 👩🦰
Modern redheads want similar results to brunettes as in they want a multi tonal result. Only difference is that I feel when glossing after having added lightness or over faded lengths and ends , it’s necessary to go with a lighter and/or warmer tone. I love adding a shot of copper/orange into my gloss to give it some extra kick!
My favourite glosses at the moment are":
REDKEN shades eq 08c & orange kicker, 09AA &06AA
L’Oreal Dialight 7.43 , 8.34
Ps disclaimer, not everyone will want these modern techniques and that’s fine.
I have clients who are a full head foils and single process brunette, and I still enjoy doing their hair. I’m talking about clients who have mood boards for their consultations.
Happy colouring. ❤️
Written by Stephen Boyle, head technician at Davey Davey
Check out Stephen’s latest masterclass, Dark to Blonde Transformation. In this masterclass Stephen creates a modern bronde, starting from a base 4 lightening to a cool nude level 8, using various techniques including baby lights, tip outs and other bespoke colouring techniques.
